BY Aurelia Mbokazi-Kashe
Once in a while, one stumbles across a discovery so precious that they immediately fantasise of a bright future of fun-filled holidays – the stuff where love, laughter, and precious memories are made. Ndumu River Lodge had that effect on me.
Don’t get me wrong, the lodge has none of the obvious ‘wow factor’ found in curated bush holidays. You will be disappointed if you go looking for a movie-like adventure that starts with spectacular architecture, and a team of beautiful people who hand you hot towels with tongs, wrestle you for your luggage, and hand you semi-sweet mint & lemon iced tea. There is no attempt to be what they are not. Instead, you will find a good, old-fashioned 3-star lodge with thatched dwellings spread out on the sprawling, manicured grounds. It feels like home – one with earthy smells and sounds reminiscent of a grandmother’s home.
Blame it on a combination of nostalgia and fatigue, I was instantly swept off my feet when I checked in at Ndumu River Lodge. I fell so deep in love and could picture my unborn grand-babies running all over the grounds or being giddy in the pool while I lazed around, sipping on cocktails or whatever grandmothers drink.
Location
Ndumu is hidden in deep, rural Northern KZN, on the Elephant Coast, and along the borders of eSwatini and Mozambique. It might be an hour from the magical Ponta do Ouro, but getting to Ndumu, or the Ingwavuma rural area, is a mission. Two colleagues and I flew into King Shaka Airport and trekked the almost 400 KM with me sandwiched in the back seat of a Toyota Urban Cruiser between our luggage and filming equipment. We were in the area to film a special project.
Driving there
The drive was along the N2 North. The freeway towards Pongola is in good condition, after Richards Bay it narrows down and can get busy. However, the challenge began after turning towards Jozini Dam. We had to navigate our way through villages and small towns for hours. The challenge began. The condition of the road has deteriorated considerably and potholes are common. On some parts of the road, the Urban Cruiser became quite a letdown. On the inclines surrounding the Jozini Dam, the 1.5-litre engine was struggling to multi-task between keeping the A/C on high and getting us up the mountain. It choked uncomfortably, often changing to lower gears for strength. Maybe it was the luggage, but with such spectacular views of the dam the car’s performance – or lack thereof – was not our focus. We gushed over the natural beauty. As we passed villages and packed rural towns, we were navigating rocks used to blockade the road during a service delivery strike, errant goats, and potholes. It was so exhausting, I needed a holiday from it all. This drive should not be attempted at night.
Reception and food
After what felt like an eternity, we arrived at the lodge in time to witness the most magnificent sunset. The accommodation is comfortable, nothing spectacular. They have options for single rooms as well as chalets that can accommodate large families. The outdoors are enchanting and come with a beautiful soundtrack from croaking frogs, chirping crickets, and competing tweets from the vast birdlife. In case the simplicity of the accommodation and tranquility of nature fails to win you, Ndumu can rely on their friendly staff to warm your heart. They make you feel at home such that their lack of ground coffee and WiFi stops being a huge factor in your life. You just learn to go with their flow. Fortunately, the food is wholesome and they do really great steak and crispy salads. Breakfast does not disappoint either, except for the lack of coffee when you are a caffeine addict.
Activities
Lodging at Ndumu for work purposes, meant there was no time to Xplore the area even though the lodge is a mere 15 minutes away from Tembe Elephant Park. Also, whale watching or deep sea diving activities are a mere 30 minutes away from the lodge. I loved the idea of being able to access the big five game viewing and the beach in one beautiful location. A true gem of the Elephant Coast. There are just as many activities that can be enjoyed at the lodge from bird watching, going on walks, or just relaxing around the pool. This was my idea of an unadulterated African bush experience. Next time I venture out to Ndumu, I will ensure that I have ample time and will surely pack my passport just in case Wonderlust takes over and I’m inclined to cross boarders.
Accommodation is from R1400 per room
